Hello Dogwooders. It could be said that using a vehicle tow-bar is a “year round” event. But as winter comes closer, it could also be said that long-distance towing (to Florida or points out west) is fast approaching … where substantially more miles will be placed on all parts on the tow system. Certainly, the stress on this product is more pronounced when the vehicle being towed is larger (i.e., heavier). So here are some personal thoughts as to towing safety.
A new towbar and “tow point” (bolted to the towed vehicle’s frame) needs only a quick inspection as part of your “walk around” before starting your RV trip. For my Blue Ox system, it was purchased “nearly new” back in 2005. Grant you, Blue Ox has re-engineered their tow bar product over the years, so what I am writing about is specific to the older Blue Ox design but there are similarities within the product line. I have observed wear at three points: (1) The main bolt into the 2” “tongue”, (2) any and all spacers/washers, and (3) the rounding-out of any connecting point where there is a “through bolt” holding any two flexible pieces together (i.e., at the up-front yoke area or the triple-lug attaching brackets). And to a lesser degree, let’s include the cable-ties that hold the rubber sleeves in place.
The “main bolt” is tightened only to a point where the monster-sized washer, located there, allows rotation. The goal: Minimize slop. To tighten this bolt, only occasionally, I needed the correct-sized socket, my breaker-bar, and a breaker-bar extension (a 3 foot length of steel pipe). Let’s just say that this bolt is WELL secured. About a quarter-of-a-turn was all the tightening needed to reduce the slop.
On another occasion, I ordered the washer replacement kit offered by Blue Ox. In preparation for this overhaul, I had noticed that there was slop at the two, triple-lug connectors (devices that connect the bar to the towed tow-points). So, in addition to the order for the washer replacement kit was the additional $$ for two, new, triple-lug connectors.
Over the past 20 years of towing, I occasionally removed the cable-ties that secure the rubber sleeves (i.e., rubber boots) in order to clean and then lubricate the shafts with wheel bearing grease. Certainly, this is the least expensive maintenance effort.
Point is: Tow-bar safety is that of careful examination for parts that are wearing and in need of tightening or replacement. But opposite of “safety”, I’d like to close with the thought of possible theft. More than likely, our tow-bars are secured with a locked receiver pin. That’s good. But what about those aluminum connectors that comprise the “tow point” on the towed vehicle. Mine (and yours?) are removable! In today’s world, the theft of metal (performed by a thief for the purpose of selling same to a scrap yard) is far too commonplace. Just imagine driving your “towed” to a restaurant, only to return to the vehicle after dinner to find that these two devices have been stolen. Replacing/purchasing these two devices might delay your travels just a bit!!! My method: When I disconnect my vehicle at a campground, I remove these items from my tow. Whew.
Speaking of “whew”, this YouTube video reveals an RVer who learned how NOT to install the vehicle “tow point” bracket. Might this installation have been accomplished by a “shade-tree mechanic”?!?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/27NDWsz8pbg
“Whereas Blue Ox was the focus above, please note a recent safety / recall action from Roadmaster: “Affecting motorhome mounted tow bars with roll pin holes…”
Use link: https://www.roadmasterinc.com/content/nw/recall.html for info.
Robi
THINK
SAFETY
EVERYDAY!
Wishing everyone safe travels.
Robi Robison, Safety Chairman
FRVA Dogwood Chapter
